London Fashion Week: Jonathan Saunders, Peter Pilotto & more

2 21 2012

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images courtesy Peter Pilotto & Jonathan Saunders

Early still, but trends to watch thus far: true navy blue as a base color, lipstick red, flame, and oxblood still VIP. Also, patent/pvc has crossed the pond. PUFFERS which have been dressed up and match the print of the layering piece. SLIM to very slim pants are everywhere…Flowers are year-round.

JONATHAN SAUNDERS: Highly eclectic. Color and print-blocking, ruby, burgundy, emerald, brown, flame, sky blue, blurry rose print, some digital graphics, tight geo-brocade. A techno-fabric w a repeat trapunto pattern used a lot. Very slim cig pants.
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PETER PILOTTO: quite smashing again! More fantastic book-ended digitized prints and a nice abstracted rose print, this time mostly grounded in navy, with hits of acid yellow, blue, purple, red. Quite bodyconscious and form fitting, even the “pant” was a tight legging/jean. Lots of intricate piecework seaming, precise craftsmanship, and complex surfaces with “cornrows!?”; also, sequins. Blue velvet showed up. Sporty yet dressed. More harnessing in the neckline. Matching printed puffers.
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CHRISTOPHER KANE: Christopher put out one of his most accessible and luxed up collections yet. He remains the most-awaited show of the London season, and a press favorite. He opened the show with a unique series of riffs on the black and white menswear chalk with stripe-on fur, leather, wool, satin or knit, in head-to-toe mix-media combinations. He sent out a powerful group of vivid lipstick red, often with puffy black leather bands or wide piping. He developed a few great prints, a velevetized rose, a blown out moire/woodgrain and a beautifully re-colored leopard in purples or blk/brown/navy. He too played with matching print puffers.
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— Linda

Linda Fargo by Dan Lecca

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