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Thoughts from the Runway: Gucci & Alberta Ferretti S/S 2012

9 23 2011

Milan is having a Deco Deluxe Day:

Both Gucci and Ferretti looked to the geometrics, patterns, silhouettes, and color pallette of the 20′s. Gucci showed predominantly black, white, and emerald with lavish amounts of gold layered on top.  The show definitely had elements of Helmut Newton/YSL le Smoking…lots of cropped, boxy jackts over high-waisted pleated slim style trousers…the jackts were tux-inspired or had strong deco geometics, gold trims.  There was some play with heritage scarf prints ( I held. Color blocking with emerald, blk, ivory….)
The drama finale was a gorgeous and assuredly luxurious series of drop-waisted, updated highly embellished and jet and gold bugle beaded “flapper” dresses. A rather “dressed up” occasion collection vs everyday….

Alberta Ferretti was quite pretty. Again, inspired by deco geometry and deco’s love affair also with tropical print. First half of the show was clean mono colored looks in ivory or black or coral, mint which were angularly bisected and pieced together. ANGULAR seamwork is shaping up to be a trend…Followed by a tropical print story , then jet(deco) “flapper” finale….