Notes from the Runway

Bergdorf Goodman Vision

Gents, Nickelson Wooster thinks you'll be going places this Spring

3 8 2011

This spring we’re digging out from the snow and raring to go, with colors as colorful as crocuses and a stripped down, lean and mean going-places attitude. We love the build enhancing clothes and the way classics have evolved with modernity, practicality and just the right touches of luxury. Here are a few runway trends we approve of completely.

Dries Van Noten Thom Browne Neil Barrett

Prepitary
That’s prep school meets the military. You know — like Choate goes to West Point. That means American classics are getting some discipline. Surprisingly, the preppy and military influences coexist peacefully. The military spirit takes the bagginess out of traditional, and gives it a lean functionality. The Ivy influence takes the militancy out of military, making it look action-oriented, not violent. Shorts are not a gimmick. They’re the trouser of the season and seem here to stay.

 

Jil Sander Band of Outsiders Etro

Color Spectrum
The visible spectrum just got wider. We’re seeing a whole new take on classic and not-so-classic colors. Plaid is evolving, showing influences from the Highlands to Madras, with deep saturated colors as striking new tartans. Sometimes we’re in neon and can’t be missed; sometimes we’re lurking in muted, elegant subtlety. And navy and khaki keep the spectrum in check and put the wackier wavelengths in perspective.

 

Kiton Boglioli Tom Ford

Engineered Garments
We are so ready for the low-calorie jacket. Designers have put tailoring on a diet and trimmed away all the excess baggage. Dump the cargo from your clothes and carry a bag. A suit isn’t a fanny pack. Jackets and trousers should be lean and muscular now, like the wearer. Tom Ford puts some POW power into Prince of Wales plaid. Khaki never looked so crisp, fresh and intelligent.

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