Photophobia

David Colman Says, “Don't Point That Thing at Me.”

11 6 2013

When history is written… well, it won’t be. That is because there won’t be words anymore, not words on a page like the ones you are reading. The theory of natural selection is undergoing a teensy shift, wherein “Survival of the Fittest” is morphing into “Survival of the Hottest.” You know who they are, the …

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Hot Pink

Constance C.R. White Says it's the Coolest Color

11 6 2013
Essay Pink

We always seem to have a gut reaction to pink. Far from a cerebral exercise in our heads, pink often pushes buttons. At any moment, someone, somewhere is creating a cultural reference from pink. You’ll be familiar with a few of them, but not all. “Pink is the navy blue of India,” Diana Vreeland said, …

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BG Conversation

Alexander Wang of New York and Balenciaga of Paris

11 6 2013

ALEXANDER WANG IS TWENTY-NINE. AT TWENTY-ONE, HE LAUNCHED HIS OWN LABEL. AT TWENTY-THREE, HE LAUNCHED A COMPLETE READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION ON THE RUNWAY. AT TWENTY-FIVE, HE WON THE VOGUE/CFDA FASHION FUND. AT TWENTY-SEVEN, GQ HONORED HIM AS BEST MENSWEAR DESIGNER. AT TWENTY-EIGHT, HE WAS PICKED BY FRANÇOIS PINAULT TO TAKE THE HELM AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF …

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The Rustle of Tissue Paper

Joan Juliet Buck's Art of Giving

11 6 2013
Tom Ford Purple Bag

A few years ago, a beautiful, tall blonde friend of mine had lunch with a man she had just met. They preambled through their histories at the old San Domenico, enjoyed each other’s company, drank a very fine wine. The man was very rich, and my friend was, at that point, anything but. He suggested …

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The Dandy Underworld

Glenn O’Brien Roots for the Daringly Dressed

8 26 2013
September Magazine: The Dandy Underworld

Men look different now. You can tell them apart better. It seems that the American male has finally begun to relax his way into the luxurious habits of self-adornment that women have enjoyed for centuries. Men are dressing themselves into veritable uniqueness. And, finally, this no longer necessarily incurs the disapproval of others. It used …

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Southern Exposure

David Coggins Wonders Why More Men Present their Ankles Au Naturel

8 26 2013

When you meet a man, you observe certain sartorial and social cues. You notice a firm handshake, perhaps a whimsical Hermès tie or maybe a watch the size of a coaster. But if you’re to really take the measure of the modern man head to toe, you are increasingly likely to discover something else: He’s …

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Anglophilia

Darrell Hartman Reports that the British are Coming. Still.

8 26 2013

In a way, to say that British looks are “in” this season is to miss the big picture. Hasn’t menswear been all about the Brits for the last couple of centuries? Before movie stars, Edward VII (of the Belle Époque) and Edward VIII (of the interwar years) dictated international men’s clothing trends. And for Parisians, …

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BG Conversation: Proenza Schouler

Lazaro Hernandez is PROENZA; Jack McCollough is SCHOULER

8 26 2013

It seems like just yesterday that I interviewed the designers in a funky Chinatown loft.  They had lived there until it morphed into their corporate headquarters. They found another place to sleep after Glenda Bailey showed up early and caught them in their underwear. Lazaro and Jack, who named the company after their moms’ maiden …

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Menswear Had a Dream

Constance C.R. White says His is Now Hers, but He Won't Mind

8 26 2013
Menswear Had a Dream: Giorgio Armani and Dries Van Noten

The best ideas from men’s style work incredibly well for women. You might even say menswear has helped move the sexes a little closer together, breaking down barriers of dress and of imagery. When females get to wear the pants (cliché intended) these days, they need not give up one iota of femininity. There are, …

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The Clothes Shrink

Cintra Wilson Undergoes Psychological Fashion Testing

8 26 2013
The Clothes Shrink: Alexander Wang

As a student of fashion and of its ability to psychologically transform, I have become mildly obsessed with “depth” level in advertising—that’s motivational analysis and other black-art, hoodoo techniques that corporate witch doctors deploy at consumers. Humans have an awesomely predictable inability to resist handbags, footwear and watches when sold with provocative images—usually involving sex …

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