Notes from the Runway: Spring Collections 2013
Linda Fargo reveals the best of Spring
Notes from the Runway:
Don’t you just love news? Especially when it’s truly NEW instead of a replay of old stories. This season was full of important fashion news, fresh directions, trends to take home and simply great clothes and accessories.
We held our breath to see what Raf Simons would do for Dior and what Hedi Slimane would do for Saint Laurent, both new designers at the helms of these important houses. Neither disappointed! Both created collections that felt modern and relevant and will serve to set the tone for years to come.
We picked up exclusive new lines in Paris: sexy cool clothes from Anthony Vaccarello and easy chic and already classic luxury handbags from Myriam Schaefer.
In New York, Proenza Schouler’s collection had it all going on—innovative, sophisticated yet cool, luxurious with an edge. We love a season with balance, one that is editorial-worthy yet reality-ready. Alexander Wang was wonderfully modern; Marc Jacobs was mad, mod and marvelous; Junya Watanabe made sportswear as couturewear; Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen created a beehive of beauty.
Every woman’s life, and her wardrobe, accordingly, needs that mix of utility and fantasy, common sense and frivolity, safety and risk. Take my word for it, the designers delivered Spring on a newsworthy platter!
l-r: Emilio Pucci, Chanel, Givenchy, Valentino
Transparency is the new buzzword. So many tasteful ways to conceal and reveal. Secondary layers of the lightest sheer fabrics floated over and beyond the edges of under-dresses. Outer veils descended like clear second hemlines. Netting and illusion were used to split seams, emphasize construction lines and reveal little peeks too. Think: looks within looks . . . sheer pants over walking shorts . . . a sheer trapeze shape over a bustier sheath—all gossamer and light as air!
l-r: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Valentino
Warm weather leathers are here. Thin as paper and butter soft! There’s something deliciously counterintuitive about this sensuous second skin when worn in the warm seasons. It’s a material with plenty of attitude and lots of shelf life. White’s the ultimate luxury, especially eye-stopping as a shoe or bag; color’s the most fun; and, of course, black is timeless. Watch for leather that is laser cut or in a naughty-and-nice interplay with lace. The newest exotic skin? Try python!
l-r: Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, Oscar de la Renta
Stripes of every persuasion, width and direction took to the runways in every city. Bandwidth took on a new meaning. Vertical, horizontal, diagonal, thick and thin! This dynamic and graphic trend caught everyone’s attention. These lines veered toward the outright optical.
l-r: Gucci, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez
Nothing zaps the heat like the warming or cooling effect of strong color! This season’s newest way to do it? All the way and head to toe. The shock of vivid blue is a season priority. Limoncello puts us in a sunny state of mind. And the zing of orange, flame and hot tomato enhance an entrance.
l-r: Stella McCartney, Helmut Lang, Junya Watanabe, Rag & Bone
Get in the game. Sports references never looked so fashion forward. The Olympics left their fashion imprint. High-minded sweatshirts and track pants with design integrity beyond. Look for scuba and tank necklines, knee-length tight shorts that go from catwalk to sidewalk, team jackets and hockey jerseys your man will not think to borrow. If it doesn’t zip, it stretches or drawstrings. There’s so much energy to be found in these action-packed clothes. Don’t miss out.
Black or White or Both
l-r: Alexander Wang, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Jil Sander
Nothing is as sharp and strong as the power of black—or white, for that matter! Happily the season can’t make up its mind, and neither could we, and we don’t have to! We can have it all. Always best when the silhouette is clear, and the textures and weights are varied. Best of both worlds? Black and white together! Thick, optical, graphic, blocky and artistic. A knockout look with high-contrast punch.
Beauty Notes: Pastel Perfection
This season’s perfect ten comes in candy-coated shades of bubblegum, lemon, pistachio and lilac. These softly spun lacquers are a light and airy mix of rich, opaque creams and subtle, shimmering sheers. We admit navigating prim pastels can prove a bit challenging. For fair skin, reach for cooler shades of pale blue and minty green. Olive skin is beautifully complemented in peachy pinks. For darker skin tones, a full array of macaroon-inspired shades await—select anything from the cotton candy pink to cheerful blues and grassy greens. All in all, you’ll find these sweet nail picks positively charming and hard to resist this Spring.
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