Menswear, Spring 2012: What’s Taking Off Now
Men are looking manlier than ever. Designers have scoured the world and come back with afro-beat grooves, bold patterns, tough military looks and the subtlest tailoring in many seasons.
The International Style
Men of the world aren’t afraid to mix their visual metaphors. Tartan plaid, madras and pattern express a sense of tradition on your own terms.
Lines heading in every direction—stripes, plaids and checks—signal individualist directions.
Now we combine patterns and textures aggressively with no fear of culture clash. Lightweight herringbone and gingham can live in harmony side by side, expressing transcontinental cool.
Look forward to updated classics, with modern takes on traditional fabrics, like madras, hopsack and gingham, and punctuate the look with a vibrant scarf.
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Military Intelligence
Men’s civvies have always been influenced by the military kit and that hasn’t changed a bit. It’s not aggression as much as masculine practicality and versatility. You can see the silhouettes in outerwear with sharp angles and bold details.
Masculine themes carry the day: leathers with biker or tarmac flair, foul weather looks, and foreign correspondent looks of double O diplomacy. It’s not costumey—but as naturally mannish as a beard.
Colors are strong. Maritime blues and bold whites. Combinations of neutrals are always smart for spring. There are more variations of olive and khaki than you can think of—mix them up and use them to your advantage.
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Tailoring Steps Up & Out
Suits are going wherever they feel like going. They go to work. Later they go have a good time. Because they feel just right now. Neither formal nor louche. It’s a season of precision, with clean lines and smart patterns. Discretion rules—lapels aren’t dangerously narrow or flamboyantly wide but just right, whether notched or peaked, single or double.
Suits and sport jackets in subdued but subtle colors are the perfect backdrop for the contrasting dynamism of a patterned shirt and tie.
Linear thinking—a little stripe or plaid goes a long way toward adding thoughtful texture to your suit. Subtlety is inviting—obviously.
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BG Dispatches:
We visited Cambodia for two of our Men’s Shoots, including this one with Arnaud and Armando.
Find out more about our trip and see additional photos
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