“Never a dull moment!” may never be truer than it is now —fashionably speaking. The fall runways were rife with the most extraordinary fabrics and gorgeous colors and robust with trends certain to put you under their spell. Somehow I came away from the shows dreaming that at last I had the right clothes to transform me into the all-capable yet chic heroine in the tale of my own life. Rich and romantic shades of deep forest, midnight and mulberry joined forces with luxurious materials such as velvet, brocade, leather and lace. Textures have never been so mind-bogglingly beautiful! Boots had their marching orders. Necklines rose up properly. Prints were fresh and lively and often top to bottom. Pants were lean and clean again. Oh so much to talk about! It’s an even more extraordinary season, as we are also celebrating our 111th Anniversary, as one store, one city, one experience!

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(l-r): Haider Ackerman, Aquilano Rimondi, Gucci, Bottega Veneta

Colors with as much depth and radiance as the finest gemstones. Collect them all—rubies, sapphires, amethysts and emeralds. Go even deeper with our favorite shades—everglade, deep forest, ink, midnight, mulberry and aubergine. We still love black, but these rich, saturated hues are the season’s signature.

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(l-r): Victoria Beckham, Burberry Prorsum, Derek Lam

Uniform influences are in order. Military jackets, capes and officer details such as brass buttons and epaulets command our attention. Fatigue greens are sharply tailored and executed with military precision. Every rank, file and unit was fashionably influential: the cavalry, air force, army and navy. Watch for officer swing coats, army anoraks and pilot puffers.

(l-r) Alexander Wang, Valentino, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

Leather has never, ever looked so good. If there is just one must-have for the season, it has to be leather, whether a full-on trouser, a thigh-high slit skirt or a high-necked prim but powerful sheath dress. Of course black leather reigns, but we love our leathers in bordeaux, navy and deep green too. We’re drawn to the sheer luxury of it all, the sensuality and its protective yet seductive strength.

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(l-r) Elie Saab, Prabal Gurung, Naeem Khan

Every season, the winds of fashion seem to favor one metal above the rest, and this fall it’s pure gold that shines the brightest. Gold is the warmest and most eternal of the precious metals. It is at its most winning as a molten gold shoe or handbag. Ultra-shine is the freshest, but stay alert for old gold, antique and bright gold too.

(l-r) Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Prada

Materials matter now. Even if a coat looks primarily black at first glance, it may be appliquéd with black patent or edged in black fur. Tone-on-tone textured artistry. Velvet made a tactile, touch-me showing and looked especially plush in deep colors. Lace was reenvisioned, reworked and reapplied into the most feminine of looks. Knits went chunky. Fur went for a dye job. Leather got shined. Surface interest was everywhere.

(l-r) Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren

There’s a lot to take from his closet. Menswear inspired tweeds, flannels and Prince of Wales plaids take on a decidedly feminine factor. Tailoring, topcoats, pantsuits and evening jackets are worn our way. Borrowing from the boys is a fact of modern life.

(l-r) Peter Som, Peter Pilotto, Miu Miu 

Every season, there are a few trends that define the moment. Designers from New York to London to Milan to Paris were pulled in by the shapely, flirty PEPLUM! It’s dramatic and flatters that all-important feminine waist-to-hip ratio.
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PUFFERS! Utility never looked so couture. Designers dressed up this useful, light-as-a-feather topper with fantastic prints and luxury fabrics.

PANTS went slim and lean to elongate your look.

Don’t fan the flame . . . let it smolder. Smudged pigments of cocoa, russet, auburn and chestnut delicately rim the lower lash line. A lot less defined and more diffused than the traditional smoky eye, the smoldering eye is a modern take on the classic. Shadow placement and shade selection make the look fresh and modern. Pop in a flicker of shimmer at the inner tear duct for daytime. For evening, give the full eye a good rimming. Resist the urge to strike perfection. Mastering this runway stunner requires the blurring of lines and the buffing of edges. Go on . . . have a smear.

—Felicia Walker Benson, Beauty Editor

Master smoldering eyes: follow our beauty tutorial

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